Exmoor National Park sprawls over 267 square miles of Devon and Somerset. The park is a unique combination of woodland, endless valleys and moorland. Our trip started with a visit to the picturesque coastal towns of Lynton and Lynmouth. We were not too fortunate with the weather as it was overcast and drizzling, however for UK standards we were lucky that we did not get caught in a downpour. It was clear to see that residents of Devon are very much used to such weather as all the local pups were dressed in rain proof jackets, coats and even puppy boots.
Lynmouth is located 500 feet below Lynton, and the towns are famous for their cliff railway that connects them to each other. Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway is a Victorian water powered lift, which is the steepest and highest water powered railway in the world, and first opened in 1890. The heritage railway is one of just three examples left in the world. It has been awarded “Gold” standard from Green Tourism UK for sustainable tourism as it operates using renewable fresh river water. The railway is also dog-friendly, so much so that on National Dog day on August 25th the dogs ride for free.
After a 4 hour drive from London we were in need of a pre-walk snack. Most places were dog-friendly and we decided on going to The Greenhouse. Berry immediately received a ton of attention and compliments from tourists and locals, as well as a welcome bowl of water. We decided to enjoy some local produce, and ordered a wonderfully fresh dressed Devon crab on toast. After our snacks we walked through town towards the coast where we joined the trail for scenic Valley of Rocks. With magnificent views across the Bristol Channel this walk is one of the most famous destinations in Exmoor. The Valley of Rocks boasts some of the highest sea cliffs in England, and even though it was overcast when we visited the views were still absolutely spectacular.
From Lynton we drove across Exmoor park to the cabin where we were staying for the next two nights. The remote cabin we were staying in was provided by a company called Rest + Wild and we absolutely loved their business concept. The cabins are located in remote and secluded areas inside the national park. In Exmoor, they have five cabins that are each located in their own farm field. Stylish cabins are crafted from natural and reclaimed materials with wood-burning stove, gas cooker and heated indoor shower. There’s also a beautiful copper bathtub outside of the cabin overlooking the rolling hills. The cabin is solar powered and has a backup generator in case the power or hot water run out, so we were able to have a hot bath whilst enjoying magnificent views.
Whilst the location is breathtaking, it’s worth noting that the drive to the cabin and around the National Park can be quite stressful. Most of the roads in Exmoor are single lane traffic roads with tractors and agricultural machinery coming towards you round the corner. We were caught a few times having to reverse round zigzag roads to make a way for other cars. It is worth noting that the local drivers were all very relaxed, and as stressful as the roads were, there were no negative interactions and everyone was very patient and friendly. Another tip from our trip would be to be prepared for a hike as soon as you arrive to the cabin. The cabin is located on top of a little hill in the field, and they ask you to leave your car at the bottom to not ruin the farmland. Rest + Wild provides a wheelbarrow at the car park for dragging your luggage and bags to the cabin. The walk from the car park to the cabin is about 400m uphill, so by the time we brought all the things up to the cabin we have had quite the workout!
Our cabin was located near a village called Molland, on the edge of Exmoor National Park which meant we could drive straight onto the moorlands and begin exploring. One of the biggest attractions of the area are Exmoor ponies. They are British native ponies that a lot of people consider to be wild. However, all the ponies belong to someone and they are seen as wild as they roam freely around the moors. To the naked eye the moors seem unending, however, there are well established boundaries in the form of cattle grades that divide different moors and different herds of livestock from mixing together. The ponies are considered very useful for maintaining the moors, as they eat the brambles that other livestock does not want to feed on. Unfortunately, due to the weather, we were not able to see any ponies grazing. Not wanting to miss out on meeting the ponies we visited the Exmoor Pony centre. Also known as Moorland Mousie Trust, they are dedicated to promotion and protection of Exmoor ponies. The rescue ponies that are no longer wanted by the farmers. Some of them are trained to be ridden by children who visit the Trust and others are lend out to other locations in the UK for grazing. With many ponies often going to places like Scotland, New Forest and other National Parks. They often prove to be so popular with locals and tourists that when the Trust asks to return the ponies they are told no.
